LauerRiesling Fass 11 Schonfels GG 2017 (750ml)
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Country | Germany |
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Unit Type | 750ml |
Alcohol | 12.5% |
Wine Class | Still White |
Pack Size | 12 |
Address | Saar |
Vinous, David Schildknecht | Like its two Grosses Gewächs stablemates, this bottling delivers peary fruit, but here we have tang and energy that entirely belie its equally low (roughly 6.5 grams) acidity. There is similar glycerol-richness but no heaviness. Smoky marjoram and incisive pepper cress make for a pungent aromatic as well as invigorating palate impression, the latter carrying over into a finish whose piquant aspects cast a lingering glow. The effect, I remarked to Lauer, is as though some snappy, tactilely pungent Grüner Veltliner had been mingled in with ripe Riesling. “That could be partly on account of what’s out there in the vineyard,” he replied, surprising me with new information about these ancient vines that he practically brought back from the dead. “We don’t know just what it is,” he continued, “but it looks from the leaves as though it’s Kleinberger, i.e. Elbling, that’s mixed in with the Riesling.” To me, Schonfels always displays this tension between marginally overripe fruit and piquant, cool herbal elements, and although I have associated that with the lower versus upper parts of the site, vine mix might be a factor. 2019-2026. 91. | October 2019 |