Moritz Kissinger“0 Ohm” Red 2021 (750ml)

The “0 Ohm” wines are what could be called the “estate wines,” a red and a white that, as their “0 Ohm” name implies, ripple with energy and bounce. An “Ohm,” if you’ve forgotten from your high school science class (as I had), is a measure of electrical resistance. In the case of both the red and the white, there is no resistance to this energy, this current.

The “0 Ohm” red is wild: it is dark and meaty, almost inky in color, yet the palate is nervy and fresh, mineral-laden and bright. This is a staining red wine, under screw cap, with only about 11.5% alcohol. Precedents here in Germany are nearly impossible to reference as this is a curious blend of Merlot and Dornfelder. For comparisons, I’d have to take you to the Loire – the bottle shares something similar with the fresher, zippier bottlings of Cabernet Franc, though the savory, meaty and sinewy quality of the wine also suggests something of a more playful Northern Rhône, if that existed… which it does not.