Lukas HammelmannChardonnay Roter Berg 2023 (750ml)

This is a stunning wine, sourced from the oldest Chardonnay vines in Hochstadt. Chardonnay was outlawed in the Pfalz until 2000, yet these were planted in 1980 – for 20 years the authorities were told this parcel was Weissburgunder. The wine is delicately textural, though perhaps this is just in comparison to the razor-sharp Rieslings we are tasting it with. The wine is still impressively structured and sinewy, with a delicate reduction. This is definitely in Chablis territory, perhaps from a more natural-leaning producer… de Moor? A superb wine.

The 2023 Roter Berg is maybe one of the best German Chardonnays I’ve ever had – mineral, dense, clear… fucking superb. I’ll have to revisit a few times to see if I was fooled by its youthful energy and confidence, but wow…   outside of Keller and Kissinger, I haven’t had many at this level.