DostertElbling “Alte Reben” 2024 (750ml)


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Unit Type:
750ml

Estimated Price:
$35


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To me, this wine is fireworks and shows, along with a wine like Hild’s “Zehnkommanull,” the staggering potential of the Obermosel and Elbling. This wine is razor sharp, crushed minerals, sweet tarts, aspirin, chalk, anything pulverized into a clean dust, candied lime zest, sea salt and more rocks. The wine has a very compact, dense core of gauze and glycerin, a miniature, porcelain structure that defines the wine without giving it any weight. The élevage too is near-perfect, the neutral wood offering the wine just the perfect amount of presence to flirt with ripeness, and then to pull back just to the line – this is a stunning and dangerous balance. I think this is a great, great wine and is likely what old timers think of when they think of Chablis.

This wine is from vines planted in 1984 in a parcel called ‘Im Schlieren’ that Dostert has worked with a lot to bring them to a good place.

Unit Type

750ml

Alcohol

10%

Wine Class

Still White

Address

Upper Mosel

Estimated Price

$35

Mosel Fine Wines

The Elbling Alte Reben 2024, as it is referred to on the central part of the label, with L-Nr. 2-26 was made from vines planted in 1984 and was fermented and aged in 228-liter used oak barrels along natural lines, i.e. without intervention, and was bottled after a rough filtering and with little SO2 added (30 mg/l). It offers a fresh and minty nose of candied citrusy fruits, freshly cut herbs, rhubarb, sage, violet, lavender, acacia, cinnamon, and almost paste. The wine is superbly light-weighted and refreshing on the palate, as plenty of zesty elements give a linear and herbal presence. The finish is light (the label indicates only 9% alcohol), taut, and slightly tart. This very light Elbling needs further aging before revealing its complexity and finesse.

No. 81 July 2026