TwardowskiPinot Noir “Hofberg Reserve” 2018 (750ml)
Country:
Germany
Unit Type:
750ml
Estimated Price:
$250
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Twardowski’s project is, quite simply, a profound reckoning with this assumption, and with climate change. It is the first estate in the Mosel in well over a century, to focus solely on red wine production. As you likely know, there are at this point some very serious Pinots being made in the Mosel (from Ulli Stein, who farms some of the oldest Pinot Noir in the Mosel and has recently acquired a barrel from Twardowski, to Heymann-Löwenstein, Günther Steintmetz, Später-Veit and Hofgut Falkenstein in the Saar), yet all of these estates are founded on Riesling. Their Pinot Noirs are, even if very good, always secondary.
With Twardowski we see a profound break from this lineage, this assumption. While, at present, Twardowski is a pioneer, one has to admit that this project is likely a harbinger of things to come. Pinot Noir will likely be a very important part of the Mosel’s future.
Vintage 2018 marks the first release of the Hofberg Réserve – a wine made from Pinot Noir grafted onto very old vines (70+ years old). It is simply stunning. These come in beautiful wooden 6ers, as befitting a wine this good. When you look back in 10 years, I think the value here will be evident.
| Address | Mosel |
|---|---|
| Country | Germany |
| Alcohol | 12.5% |
| Estimated Price | $250 |
| Pack Size | 6 |
| Unit Type | 750ml |
| Wine Class | Still Red |
| Mosel Fine Wines | The 2018er Hofberg Pinot Noix Ardoise GG, as it is written on the consumer label, was made with 50%-destemmed fruit picked on a massal selection grafted on 40 to 70-year-old vines. This garnet-red colored wine offers a ripe yet delicate and smoky nose of blackberry jelly, spices, violet, licorice, and herbs. The wine proves quite zesty and dynamic side on the palate driven by some still rough and slightly dry tannins at this stage. The finish is quite intense and even a touch powerful, especially as tartness and earthy elements join the party. The after-taste is fully dry, almost sharp, and slightly marked by some wood presence at this early stage, even after some airing. This Pinot Noir is still very much work in progress and will require quite some years in order to integrate its elements and find its balance. But the depth and complexity are hugely impressive (the nose is already hugely seductive): We would not be surprised if this could ultimately warrant a higher rating as the wine develops more finesse. | No 53 Aug 2020 |