Weiser-KünstlerRiesling Ellergrub “GE” Grand Cru (750ml)

The Grand Cru dry wines of Weiser-Künstler are among the most cerebral dry Rieslings made in the Mosel. They are wines of meditation, wines that seem to have something more to do with distillates or teas made from stone, ore and flower. They have very little easy fruit to hang one’s hat on. In other words, they are among the most thrilling wines from this fabled place.

Only after 24 hours does this show anything and it’s so delicately ethereal, so barely perfumed that I want to cry… anise, lavendar, blueberry, rainwater… on the palate it is expansive, like a cold morning mist reaching into every pour, yet weightless… it’s grapey, airy with a perfumed fruit on the palate that is purple and blue… this is just haunting. All the wines have this lightness, this expansiveness… there is an acid, a linear quality to the wines, yet they are not fine… they are ethereal and expansive, almost non-tangible… the feeling is not soft in the least – it is a room with no edges, a corner with no crease?

After a few hours the fruit emerges on the nose, as described above, but the palate remains just a polished sphere of slate. This wine is fucking beguiling.

If you can, do not decant, yet keep the wine open for as long as you can; it is only more intriguing on days three and beyond.