Julien RenardRiesling “Le Ch’ti” 2021 (750ml)
Country:
Germany
Unit Type:
750ml
Estimated Price:
$65
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While the “Gött’sche” is deeper, the “Le Ch’ti” is the most distilled and essential Riesling I have ever had – Riesling dissected to the sub-atomic level. If there are any precedents, they would have to be the rapier-like wines of Stefan Vetter or Jonas Dostert. Though neither of these two growers focuses on Riesling, and perhaps this makes all the difference. Truth be told, these are among the most boundary-pushing Moselles – or German wines for that matter – I’ve ever had, a surreal combination of extreme mineral, precision, clarity, luminosity, acidity, energy.
The name Le Ch’ti is a reference to the region, people and language of the northern part of France where Julien’s father is from, and this wine is dedicated to him. This is a barrel selection every year, so is a different wine each vintage. In the years 2018-2020 Le Ch’ti was driven by the back and forth from oxidative to reductive aging. In 2021 the idea was on the contrary to work with more reduction and less ripe fruit. 2021 Le Ch’ti represents 2021 in its core. Low alcohol, strong and long acidity and structure – never green.
These are not “typical” fruity Moselle Rieslings. While much of the language here is similar – profound citrus, complex herbal and palate-staining mineral notes – these wines speak a language that is different… it is a new language of the Moselle that is being explored. It’s too early to tell, really, but I think these might be *profound* wines and may prove to be legends of the new Moselle, whatever that new Moselle might be.
| Country | Germany |
|---|---|
| Unit Type | 750ml |
| Alcohol | 10.5% |
| Wine Class | Still White |
| Pack Size | 12 |
| Address | Mosel |
| Estimated Price | $65 |
| Mosel Fine Wines | The 2020er Le Ch’ti (the reference to the name is, as usual for this Estate, only provided on the back label) is an homage to Julien’s father, who lives in Northern France and whose inhabitants are called Ch’ti by their French compatriots. This wine, which carries the lot number 20LC is a bonedry Riesling made from direct-pressed grapes. It was fermented and aged without any intervention on its gross lees in oak (while allowing for some ullage) for 20 months before being bottled unfiltered and with minimal SO2 added (total SO2 is 29 mg/l). It offers a hugely captivating and layered nose of minty herbs, spearmint, violet, grapefruit, cassis, plum, fine bakery elements, lime tree, and greengage, all wrapped into a subtle blanket of Indian spices and volatile acidity. The wine is superbly focused on the playful and energetic palate. It is structured, intense, and still slightly compact, but leaves a magnificent refreshing and vibrating finish. The after-taste proves bone-dry and still has a slightly austere side. Lovers of natural, refined, and bone-dry Riesling will find in this example a model of finesse and tension. What a breathtaking effort! | No. 64 Dec 2022 |