Max KilburgRiesling Ohligsberg Grand Cru Dry (750ml)

The Ohligsberg is considered, by nearly every German winemaker we speak with, among the top sites of the Mosel. It has a great exposure, so warmth and ripeness is not a problem, yet parts of it are also tucked into a side-valley of sorts and the wines benefit from the cool breezes that slide down the valley. As such, the wine is both powerful and deep – not lavish exactly but it often presents a darker, deeper fruit tone, more than one taster has noted a familial similarity with Domprobst for those who know Willi Schaefer’s taut Baroque scultpures from this vineyard. At the same time the wine lacks nothing for firmness, electricity, structure.

The Ohligsberg is the broader and deeper wine; it is grander in all senses. On the nose there is a flash of the exotic – piquant apricot, perfumed yet still tart. The palate is slightly creamier, yet it’s also very well delineated and has just immense depth and length. Both wines are Grand Cru dry wines for the ages. Cellar as long as you can.