LudesRiesling Ritsch Kabinett Feinherb “Gackes Unten” 2022 (750ml)
Country:
Germany
Unit Type:
750ml
Estimated Price:
$32
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The “Gackes Unten” is sourced from a prime, central parcel of the Ritch, under the “Gackes,” which, you might imagine, is yet another word in the Mosel dialect for slate. This parcel is, literally, under a small wall outcropping of slate. This is a remarkably stoney part of the vineyard with very shallow soil planted to 85 year old ungrafted vines with very low yields. At 22.7g of residual sugar this is deceptively dry-tasting due to its whopping 10.7g of acid. Insanely salty and long, a personal favorite.
This is simply a superlative wine – the only benchmarks we can think of are Stein’s Himmelreich Kabinett Feinherb and those of Hofgut Falkenstein. The nose is outrageously stoney, again that salty slatey note similar to the village-level Thörnich. This is a perplexing wine, with so much mineral and citrus and spice, yet also just a profoundly refreshing and clean cream note, though not at all malic or heavy feeling. So much fresh garden-greenness, a floral citrus-cream quality, yet an invigorating, crystalline and angelic-feeling delicacy. Superb.
For an introduction to the 2022 vintage at Ludes, check out our newsfeed piece here.
| Address | Mosel |
|---|---|
| Unit Type | 750ml |
| Pack Size | 12 |
| Alcohol | 10% |
| Estimated Price | $32 |
| Country | Germany |
| Mosel Fine Wines | The 2022er Thörnicher Ritsch Riesling Kabinett Feinherb “Gackes Unten” was made from fruit harvested at 81° Oechsle on largely un-grafted old vines in the middle front part of the vineyard part of the vineyard and was fermented down to off-dry levels of residual sugar (22 g/l). The nose is initially very closed, with only residues from its spontaneous fermentation, giving a very smoky and herbaceous aspect. It takes a few minutes in the glass for it to show its complexity, with notes of cassis, wild strawberry, candied grapefruit, fine spices, aniseed herbs, and fresh herbs. The wine has superb balance on the palate, with finesse but also intensity and grip. The finish is very long, chiseled, and refreshing. What a gloriously light yet deep expression of dry-tasting Kabinett! | No. 67, Sep. 2023 |