VollenweiderRiesling Wolfer Dry 2021 (750ml)

Of course you can’t approach these wines without more than a bit of emotion; 2021 was Daniel’s last harvest. In many ways, these new arrivals, the 2021 village-level Wolf and Grand Cru Goldgrube Trocken are monuments to him, to his life and legacy.

On the other hand, in many ways they are also a testament of things to come, to the strength of the estate in the hands of Moritz Hoffmann, Daniel’s partner at the estate for the last two years.

Writing about all this openly and honestly is a bit of a tricky balance, because I neither want to offend Daniel’s legacy nor make it seem like I’m carelessly inflating Moritz’s skills, but the truth is for the last two years Moritz did nearly everything in the cellar – in 2021 Daniel was quite sick and Mortiz did nearly everything in the vineyards and in the cellar.

And while Moritz’s skill with the Prädikats was simply to maintain the standard Daniel set as one of the absolute greatest in the Mosel, Moritz has sharpened things in the cellar as per the dry wines, and you can taste it – the energy.

What does this mean, specifically? Beginning with 2019 Moritz began picking the dry wines a bit earlier; in discussions with Daniel they also decided to do less maceration, and shorter times with lees contact (meaning in this case, not 18 months but only 12).

The idea was simply to shape the wines with more cut, a bit more clarity and edge. And they have this. And you can taste it.

I was with Moritz last month (just two weeks ago) tasting through the 2021 dry wines, which were only bottled after harvest in 2022. The wines are epic; classic 2021ers in form and incisive energy, coiled up and nervous with lime-zest, sea salt and ocean breezes. These are both precious wines to open 24-48+ hours before drinking, or if you can, cellar for a bit.

While I think the 2020ers are more stately and balanced, now, I think the 2021ers will prove to be the greater wines – they simply have so much depth and structure.