VetterSpatburgunder Steinterrassen 2020 (750ml)

The “Steinterrassen” wines should be thought of as the 1er Cru wines; they are always sourced from steep, terraced vineyards, from some of the better, older-vine parcels. Vetter’s Pinot Noirs are dense and compact, not heavy, but very defined, with fresh dark and tart red berry fruit and a crunchy acidity.

Sourced from a massive 0.2 hectare plot of Pinot Noir planted up in the terraces, the 2020 Steinterrassen sees a week long maceration with some whole-cluster. Damn I love this wine: It is 10.5% alcohol, but with an attitude. Dark, crunchy purple fruits mix it up with minerals, as if the bottle was some bizarre mountain-distillate of rocks and fruits. The palate is tangy, vibrant – it feels like everything is being done to make the elegant, restrained and aristocratic Pinot Noir really dance, really party, for once in its pretty damn conservative life. Is some of the fine-ness and ethereal delicacy lost? Yes. But there’s also something gained, some insight into the elasticity and joyous, raucous fun of Pinot Noir.