VetterSylvaner Steinterrassen “Muschelkalk” 2020 (750ml)

The “Steinterrassen” wines are something like Vetter’s “1er Crus” – they are sourced from older vines from within the stone terraces. Vetter has two Sylvaners at this level, each one corresponding to a unique soil type: “Sandstein” or sandstone and “Muschelkalk” or limestone.

Compared to the “Sandstein,” this is much more dusty, with pounded mineral and chalk notes, balsa wood, a delicate nuttiness, a green streak of resin and pine needles. On the palate this is outrageously mineral – it has the signature firmness and rigidity of limestone. The “Muschelkalk” has so much more grip, with a tactile lemon pith. While it is a bit “bigger” (this is 10.5%), it is still so tensile and nervous and cut. Just superb; tasting this next to its “Steinterrassen Sandstein” sibling is just fascinating.

Vetter’s technique is worth noting, as it’s unique. The grapes are whole-cluster pressed without any maceration or crushing and put directly into old/neutral barrels. The wine is topped up while in barrel, but not sulfured. The wines are normally racked only once and then bottled unfined and unfiltered with lower SO2.

None other than the New York Times’ Eric Asimov wrote about one of Stefan Vetter’s Sylvaners as a “most memorable bottle of 2018.” Find the article here: https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/07/dining/drinks/eric-asimov-favorite-wines.html