SaalwächterGrauburgunder 2021 (750ml)

There is an ever-so-delicate wash of red tones in this white wine; it’s almost indescribable. I’m not 100% sure I’ve seen anything like it. It’s like a touch of peach juice was added to the final cuvée, or like you’re looking into some strange prism where there is a red object, just around the corner, invisible to your eye yet you sense, feel, see, not the object but the reflection of its tone. Not to get too nuts about it, but the color is curious. Anyway, in Germany Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) is a commercial force to be reckoned with – something like Chardonnay or Sancerre in the U.S. market. What matters is not the quality, but the category. Thus there is little imperative to make serious Grauburgunder in Germany – it’ll sell either way so why bother? With that elegant introduction, this is a serious Grauburgunder. Deep with round corners and melon fruit, the wine has more than enough acidity and phenolics to give the it some grip and structure. Superb.